Hi again to everybody. The story goes on.
We stayed and laughed a few days in Vicuña and then we came back to San Felipe (via the highway), thankful for the hospitality and after a couple of brief bike driving lessons for both pilot and copilot.
We parked at home just a couple of days, enough to vote (we had presidential elections) and to do some business and then we headed south, with no destination. We made a stop to visit some relatives at Curicó, 350 km from home, and they talked us about a beautiful place unknown to us called the Saltos del Huilo Huilo (falls of Huilo Huilo). So, there we went, to the region of the lakes. The dramatic difference between the lakes and the forrests of the south and the dry hills covered by cactus of the north is always fascinating, and it makes of travelling such and exciting experience.
The trip was worth of it, far, and the touristic development found in the national park of Huilo-Huilo was notorious, even if a little elitist and almost snob, but nature was well protected and that was all I am concerned of so… well done. We didn’t stayed at the big hotels of dubious taste of the park and, instead, we rented a lovely cabin in a precious and quiet place nearby at a fifth of the price of the cheapest room of the hotels, with a personal spa. We hiked all around and made a horse ride through the ancient forrests. Nice.
We left a couple of days after our arrival and decided to go to another national park named Villarrica, on the slopes of the Villarrica volcano. We drove up through millenarium araucaria trees and gigantic coigüe trees until we got to the ranger’s cabin. I told the girl that was at the counter that I wanted to continue through the park and descend by the other side of the volcano to go to Pucón, another touristic village some thirty kilometers away by the road that was clearly marked on every map we had. She smiled at me and said nothing, which I found a little odd, but I could not interpret it. We payed the entrance fee and drove to the highest part of the road where we parked and made a little promenade of nearly four kilometers to the remains of a melting glacier. The trip was nice though hard, the sun was shining, the air was clean, there were lots of volcanos at sight and we saw a couple of rare gigantic woodpeckers while returning to the car. Good.
When we reached the parking the actual ranger showed up riding a bike with some other guy and asked us how things were going, with a smile on his face, and continued down the road as if nothing. We got in the car and followed them, and after a few meters the road began to descend and became each time rougher. The bike with both guys passed by in the opposite sense and we saw them waving good bye. We waved too.
From then on the nice and placid road became a terrible trail undermined by deep trenches that wriggled from one side to the other, and at the bottom of the trenches there were a few big rocks that menaced to tear the guts of the Montero apart in case it slipped onto them. Bad. To make it worse, the 4x4 was not prepared for such terrain and the tires were completely inappropriate; even if I could turn around I would stay stuck due to the slippy soil and the slope. It was one way only, and there was only hope to make it through. Carmen was hysterical and I, well… fascinated and full of adrenalin, of course.
After a few hundred meters of horrorific trail and of what we thought was the worst part of the road we relaxed a little, realizing that the machine and the hands could manage the pitfalls, entrusted to the Big Boss in heart and soul. Carmen got out of the car and made videos of some of the passages and we calmly went on. The road was twenty kilometers long and it took us more than two hours to get a decent terrain. Each time we thought that the worst part was over there were other hundreds of meters of trenches, rocks, heavy slopes or everything combined, with a couple of torrents that lacked a proper bridge.
In the end I understood what the smile on the faces of the girl and the ranger meant; they just wanted to know where these idiots were going to get stuck in their desire to get Pucón by the forbidden road. When we reached the other side, the good road, we saw the sign that warned everybody that the road was impassable and prevented to go further on. I felt angry and stupid for some millisecond, but after a few moments I was grateful for the experience. The Montero performed brilliantly and fortunately it only hit the plastic mudguard when it fell from a root of a tree and the plastic lateral molding got unstuck.
Maybe at some time I will upload the videos on Youtube, when I find the wills and the time to edit them, but for now a few photograms to show better what I briefly describe. They are not spectacular nor they show the worst parts we went through, but they are at least interesting and to some they may be challenging enough to encourage to repeat the experience in a more prepared fashion. Unfortunately the Merkabah will be too big to fit on the trail. Hmmm…
The trip back to San Felipe was uneventful and we made it in two relaxed journeys. We stopped at a shoping mall (don’t ask) in an intermediate city to lunch, and right in front of the Montero parked a brand new, white, top version, turbodiesel, 4x4, Hyundai Santa Fe. It had been around my head for the previous two months, despite my brother-in-law’s efforts to dissuade me. It parked right there, at that precise moment, challenging my integrity and my profound esteem for the old Japanese. But it went wrong for her, and the recent performance of the Montero made me forget forever the elegant but tricky corean lady.
At the side of the highway there was an old 6x4 Mercedes that seemed to be in its eternal rest. I pulled over and examined it; the frame was pretty healthy and it seemed to be not very much hit overall. I inquired around and made it through to the owner who told me that he had bought it recently just in that state, with no engine and no gear box, and that he planned to fix the truck putting a less consuming engine on it. I really liked the truck, and with time I feel more and more familiar with that particular type. I fantasized about swapping the axles and the drive train from the Merkabah and get a 6x6 far longer and with a larger cabin with a newer look. I got back in the car and Carmen shot me a glance with a smile, moving slightly the head side to side. Anyway… she knows.
