110-17AW Ersatzteilliste / Sperrdifferenzial

[dollythelw]

Hallo,
bitte entschuldigen Sie meine deutsche Sprache, bin ich mit zur Verwendung von Google zu übersetzen. Ich suche für eine Stückliste für ein Iveco Magirus 110-17AW. Ich habe die DOKA Modell.

Wer weiß, wenn die Differenz zurück von einem M168 FAL die Vorderseite eines 110-17AW passen würde? Ich würde gerne ein Sperrdifferential an beiden Enden!
Vielen Dank

Jez der Engländer

[Wilmaaa]

Hi Jez,

welcome to the forum.

Feel free to ask questions in English - we do have quite a large number of members who speak the language and who'll be happy to help you out.

Direct translations by google or other online resources usually are more confusing than helpful.

Wilmaaa

[dollythelw]

Thanks Wilmaa


I was trying to be polite but sadly both google and I are pretty limited!

I have just bought an Iveco Magirus 110-17AW DOKA and I need to track down a complete parts list and possibly even a service manual for it.

We take regular trips to Russia and I really want to put a locking differential into the front axle (diselmot has a variety of diffs at the moment) but I dont know if the M168 rear diff would be interchangable with the 110-17's front diff - if anyone knows a solution (or even a part number) it would be greatly appreciated!

I'm new to these trucks .. please help!

Cheers

Jez
www.flyingspanners.net

[Wilmaaa]

I really want to put a locking differential into the front axle

Why do you think you need one? It sounds like a rather huge project, and the question is, where do you want to go and is this really what you'll need.

There are several people here who've travelled to or through Russia, and I'm sure they can tell you more about whether they felt they needed a diff lock in the front axle.

I don't want to put you off your project, I just want to understand what you're planning to do.

[dollythelw]

I race proto class in Russian Trophy raids and have done for the past 5 years, if the race car breaks it will do it in some very unpleasant places

having the capacity to get the Maggie close enough to deploy an ATV and some spare parts would be very handy.





we do stupid things..... a lot

[dollythelw]

well I got a chance to crawl around under the truck at the weekend and the diff casting is the same for front and rear, the only difference is a "press in" cap where the difflock actuator should locate in the front...

so, in theory it should just be a case of getting a difflock actuator and slidging dog and fitting it all to the front diff casing - the only potential issue will be if the front left halfshaft doesn't have the splines for the sliding dog in which case I will have to get a custom halfshaft made (no problem)

I still need to track down a parts list

Also need to find out what code the batteries are/should be - I dont think we have this "square" type in England and the batteries fitted to my truck die overnight

[Wilmaaa]

What you should keep in mind before you think about trying to find a fitting diff lock is that the weight of the truck, the type of tyre and the tyre's air pressure plus the driver's skill is the limiting or permitting factor of getting somewhere.

A light truck like our Hanomag A-L 28 might get further even without any diff locks than a heavier truck like our Magirus, depending on the terrain.

So, when it comes to preparing the truck to boldly go where no truck has gone before, there's much more to take into account than an additional diff lock.

Batteries: you can use any battery that fits in terms of power (amp hour, voltage) - the only thing you need to do is to make a battery of any other proportion than the ones you had fit into the space where you want to have it. One of our "Natoblock" batteries (the large square ones) broke in Iceland last year, and we simply fitted another size.

Wilmaaa

[Uwe]

Hi Jez,

you are right, you need a custom halfshaft. For a parts list you best ask 'felix', he fitted his front axle also with a diff lock.

We run our 110-17 with two 75 Ah batteries which fit perfectly in the existing case. For expedition use, I would choose a 90 Ah type (starter / heating).

Uwe

[dollythelw]

Thanks guys

Dont worry Wilmaa Im not under the illusion that an extra locker can get you anywhere but I appreciate the advice

I will look for some batteries to fit in, the Nato square type are not so easy to find here

Uwe - thankyou, do you know if Felix made a thread or website for his conversion?

We have noticed a large box on the side of the battery box and this "clunks" when the batteries are re-connected (even with the ignition switch turned off) I guess there is a relay in here but what does this do? and why is it permenantly live? it draws quite a lot of current and will kill the batteries

Thanks again

[Kami]

http://www.afrika-virus.de/cms/images/s ... n_0_3.html

REgards

Kami

[Uwe]

Hi Jez,

the box beside the batteries contains the main switch. It is articulated by the ignition switch. Normally, it should be dead when the truck is switched off.

Uwe

[dollythelw]

vielen Danke Kami!

Uwe - ahh thankyou! That makes sense now, for some reason the ignition switch does not shut the engine down, I must use the exhaust brake to do this - Philipp from PADH said this was normal for 110-17 ?!?! there is also a non-standard switch on the dashboard that say "Not Aus" but this doesnt seem to do anything, does 110-17 not have a fuel stop solenoid?

When the ignition switch (key) is turned off the dashboard lights all shut down but I suspect the main eletrics dont this would explain why this main relay is still drawing power - I didn't know if there was some kind of modification for vehicles used in driving schools (possibly a kill switch) mounted on the instructors side of the truck that had been removed - any ideas?

Cheers

Jez

[Uwe]

Hi Jez,

the engine of the 110-17 ist stopped by the engine brake - that's correct

The kill switch (NOT-AUS) doesn't work anymore, these switches were decomissioned by the Bundeswehr some years ago.

Normally, the main relay turns off 10 - 15 seconds after you've pulled the ignition key. The truck beeps and you hear the relay switching.

As far as I know, the only special equipment of the driving school vehicles are the twin pedals and the rev.

So long

Uwe

[dollythelw]

ok, that gives me a valuable head start, it would seem the timer circuit to shut-down the main relay isnt working, there's is no beeping at all - that shouldnt be so hard to fix,

did the kill switch originally shut the main relay or just kill the motor?

sorry to be such a pain in the ass

[Uwe]

Consequentially, the kill switch should stop both engine and electrics. But I haven't seen the switch working, so I cannot say what's right or wrong.

Just throw the electric main relay out and put a manual main switch in

Uwe